Santa Monica · Deck Services
Pool Decks
Poolside surrounds and hot tub platforms built for constant water, bare feet and serious point loads.

Pool Decks · Santa Monica
Building For Constant Water And Bare Feet
A pool deck is the only surface on a property that is wet most of the time it is being used, walked on barefoot, splashed with chlorinated or salt water daily, and expected to stay cool enough to stand on in August. That combination rules out a lot of materials that work perfectly well elsewhere. It also changes the structure underneath. Water has to run away from the coping and away from the house rather than sitting in the joist bays, board gaps have to be wide enough to drain and narrow enough to be comfortable underfoot, and every fastener within reach of the splash zone has to be stainless because chlorine and salt will find the rest. If a spa or hot tub is part of the plan, the framing question becomes serious: a filled tub with people in it runs to roughly 5,000 pounds concentrated on a small footprint, which is a structural calculation rather than a finish decision, and it is the single most common thing we get called out to fix on somebody else’s work. We build pool surrounds and spa platforms across Santa Monica, Brentwood, Beverly Hills and the beach neighborhoods, in ipe and other dense hardwoods, in capped composite and in PVC. All three handle water well and each behaves differently on a hot afternoon, which is a conversation worth having before the order goes in. If the pool area is on a slope, Hillside Decks covers the engineering side, and shade over the loungers is a Patio Covers job.

Why Use Us Around Water
The two failures we are called out to fix on pool decks are always the same. Either the water was never given anywhere to go, so the framing sat damp for years and let go quietly from underneath, or a spa was set into a structure that was never designed to carry it and the frame is now sagging around it. Both are avoidable at the drawing stage and neither is cheap afterwards. We design the drainage before the layout, we size the framing for the actual filled weight of any tub, we specify stainless throughout the splash zone as standard, and we choose the surface material against how hot it gets underfoot rather than how it looks in a brochure. We have been doing this on Westside pools since 2006 and we would rather lose a quote on price than build one that fails.
- Drainage designed first, so water leaves the deck rather than sitting in the joist bays.
- Spa and hot tub framing sized for the filled load, roughly 5,000 pounds on a small footprint.
- Stainless fasteners and connectors throughout the splash zone, as standard rather than as an upgrade.
- Surface material chosen for grip when wet and for how hot it gets in direct August sun.
- Board spacing set to drain properly while staying comfortable under bare feet.
- Pool gates and guards built to the enclosure rules, which are checked at inspection.
Reasons To Replace A Pool Surround
Most pool deck projects start from one of these:
The concrete is cracked or lifting
Old poured surrounds crack, settle and trip people, and patching rarely holds. A framed deck over or beside the coping is often faster, warmer underfoot and easier to service than pouring again.
The surface is too hot to stand on
Light concrete and pale stone reflect glare; dark composite gets genuinely painful in direct August sun. Material choice fixes this, and it is worth deciding before the order rather than after the first hot weekend.
You are adding a spa or hot tub
A filled tub is around 5,000 pounds. Setting one on framing built for foot traffic is the most common structural mistake we see around pools, and it shows up as a sag within a couple of seasons.
Water is pooling against the house
Splash-out and rain that cannot drain away from the coping ends up under the framing or against the wall. Once it is sitting there, everything above it is on a clock.
The boards are slippery when wet
Smooth-finish material and algae film are a genuine hazard beside a pool. Textured boards, correct spacing and a cleaning schedule take the risk out of it.
The pool gate no longer complies
Pool enclosure rules cover gate height, self-closing hardware and gaps in the guard. If a deck rebuild changes levels around the pool, that compliance has to be rechecked and it is checked at inspection.
Send us a photo of what is there now and we will tell you whether it is a resurface or a rebuild before we come out. Call: (310) 564-8939

How A Pool Deck Build Runs
Drainage first, structure second, surface last. In that order, every time.
1. Site visit and water survey
We look at where water currently goes, where the coping sits relative to the house, whether there is an existing slab worth building on, and where a spa might land. Drainage is worked out before anything about the shape is decided.
2. Design and material selection
Scaled drawing with levels, board direction and spacing, plus a real comparison of hardwood, composite and PVC against grip, surface temperature and lifespan. If a spa is going in, its framing is designed at this stage.
3. Framing and drainage
Footings, framing sized for the load including any tub, falls set so water runs away from the coping and the house, and stainless hardware throughout. Where a spa sits, additional beams and posts go in underneath it.
4. Surface, gates and finish
Boards laid with hidden fasteners and correct drainage gaps, picture framed at the coping, then guards and any pool gate hardware to the enclosure rules. Final inspection and a wash down before handover.
Surfaces, Spas And Drainage
The decisions that make a pool deck work, or quietly fail:
Hot tub and spa platforms
A filled spa with occupants approaches 5,000 pounds over a footprint of a few square feet. That needs its own beams, posts and footings under the deck, designed for the specific tub. Setting one on standard joists is how frames sag, and it is not repairable without pulling the surface up.
Ipe and dense hardwood surrounds
Ipe handles constant water, chlorine and salt air without treatment, stays cooler underfoot than dark composite, and lasts decades. It is the premium choice around Brentwood and Beverly Hills pools and the labour cost reflects the density.
Composite and PVC around water
Capped composite and cellular PVC never rot, never need staining and shrug off pool chemicals. PVC absorbs nothing at a cut end, which makes it the better answer near the coast. Lighter colours matter here, because dark boards get hot.
Slip resistance
Wet feet plus a smooth surface is the main injury risk around a pool. Textured board finishes, running boards in the direction of travel and keeping the surface clean all reduce it. Algae film is the hidden culprit and it responds to a scheduled wash.
Drainage and falls
Water has to leave. That means a slight fall away from the coping and away from the house, drainage gaps between boards, and a graded, drained surface underneath the framing so nothing sits in the shade and stays damp.
Waterproofing over living space
Where a pool deck sits over a garage, a room or a basement, the structure needs a full waterproof membrane below the surface, with the finished deck floating on pedestals above it. That is a different build to a deck over open ground and it is worth pricing as one.
Pool gates and guards
Enclosure rules cover barrier height, self-closing and self-latching gates, and the maximum gap in a guard. A rebuild that changes levels changes what complies, and the inspector will check it. Guard construction is covered under Deck Railing.
Lighting around water
Low-voltage LED in the stair risers and along the perimeter makes a pool surround usable and safe after dark. All of it has to be rated for the environment and installed clear of the splash zone.
What A Pool Deck Costs In Santa Monica
Pool surrounds sit at the upper end of the $15 to $75 per square foot band, because the material and the hardware are both specified up. What moves it:
- Material. Ipe and dense hardwood cost the most, PVC and premium capped composite sit below them, and standard composite is the entry point. Bare pressure treated pine is rarely the right answer beside a pool.
- Stainless hardware. Fasteners and connectors in the splash zone cost several times their galvanised equivalents, and they are the reason the structure is still sound in fifteen years.
- Spa framing. Additional beams, posts and footings under a hot tub are a structural line item, priced against the filled weight of the specific unit.
- Drainage work. Regrading, drains and a drained bed beneath the framing add cost and prevent the failure that costs far more.
- Waterproofing. A pool deck over living space needs a membrane and a pedestal system, which is a different and more expensive build.
- Demolition. Breaking out and hauling away an old concrete surround is real work, and it is quoted separately so you can see it.
- Gates and guards. Compliant pool enclosure hardware, cable or glass guards and self-closing gates each carry their own cost.
Every quote is fixed and includes the drainage design, the stainless hardware and the permit where one applies. If the surround is structurally fine and only looks tired, Deck Cleaning followed by a re-seal is a far cheaper answer and we will tell you when that is the case. The full range of deck construction we take on across the Westside is laid out in one place.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a deck hold a hot tub?
Yes, if it is designed to. A filled spa with people in it comes to roughly 5,000 pounds concentrated over a small area, which is far beyond what standard deck framing carries. That means additional beams, posts and footings directly under the tub, sized for the specific model. Retrofitting a spa onto a deck built for foot traffic is the most common structural failure we get called to around pools, and by the time it sags the surface has to come up to fix it.
What is the best material for a pool deck?
For most Westside pools it comes down to ipe, capped composite or PVC. Ipe is dense, stays relatively cool underfoot, handles chlorine and salt air without treatment and lasts decades, at the highest material and labour cost. PVC absorbs no water at all, which makes it the strongest choice within sight of the ocean. Capped composite sits between them on price and needs no staining. Lighter colours matter regardless of material, because dark boards get uncomfortably hot in direct August sun.
Will pool chemicals damage the deck?
Chlorinated and salt water will corrode standard galvanised fasteners and connectors over time, which is why we specify stainless throughout the splash zone as a baseline. The boards themselves are more forgiving: composite and PVC are unaffected, and dense hardwoods handle it well. Softwoods such as redwood and cedar can discolour with repeated chemical exposure, which is one reason we rarely recommend them right at the water’s edge.
Can you build a deck over an existing concrete pool surround?
Frequently, and it is often the better answer. If the slab drains away from the house and is structurally sound, a low sleeper system over it carries a new surface without any demolition, which saves both money and a skip. If the concrete is cracked, heaving or holding water against the house, it needs to come out, because building over a drainage fault only delays the consequences.
How do you keep a pool deck from getting slippery?
Three things do most of the work: a textured board finish rather than a smooth one, correct spacing so water drains through instead of sitting on the surface, and regular cleaning to stop algae film building up. That film is the usual cause when a surround becomes slippery a few years in, and a scheduled low-pressure wash removes it.
Does a pool deck need a permit?
Usually yes, and the pool enclosure rules apply on top of the normal deck requirements. Barrier height, self-closing and self-latching gates and the maximum gap in a guard are all checked at inspection, and changing levels around a pool can change what complies. We handle the filing and the inspection either way.
Planning a deck in Santa Monica?
Tell us what you want to build and where it sits, and we will come out this week with a free estimate and a fixed price.
Or call us now: (310) 564-8939